Indian Embroidery Quiz: Zardozi, Chikankari, Phulkari and More

Metal and ribbon work

• Zardozi: heavy embroidery with metallic threads (traditionally gold and silver), beads and sequins, used on bridal wear. Lucknow is a well-known centre.
• Gota Patti (Rajasthan): strips of woven gold or silver ribbon (gota) cut into shapes and stitched onto fabric.

Thread embroidery

• Chikankari (Lucknow): fine hand embroidery, traditionally white thread on fine white cotton such as muslin.
• Phulkari (Punjab): "flower work", worked in a darning stitch from the back of the cloth with bright silk floss.
• Kantha (West Bengal): running stitch, traditionally on layers of old sarees and dhotis.
• Kasuti (Karnataka): fine counted-thread embroidery, often on Ilkal sarees.
• Kashida (Kashmir): fine embroidery, often in chain stitch, with motifs from nature.
• Aari: chain stitch made with a hooked needle (the aari), fast and fine; widely used in Gujarat and Kashmir.

Mirrors and sparkle

Mirror work (shisha, abhla) is typical of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Sequins, stones and beads add sparkle to party wear.

Hand or machine?

Surat has thousands of computerised multi-head embroidery machines that produce heavy work quickly and affordably. Hand embroidery shows small irregularities and a softer back; machine embroidery is perfectly even and usually has a backing on the reverse. Both sell, but describe them honestly. Also try the Gujarat textile crafts quiz.