Fabric Defects & Quality Inspection Quiz: 4-Point System, GSM & Bowing

Why Quality Inspection Matters Before Cutting

Fabric represents 50% to 70% of the cost of a finished garment or saree. Catching defects at the grey or dyed fabric stage prevents expensive stitching losses and customer rejections.

The 4-Point System (ASTM D5430)

The 4-point system is the international industry standard for inspecting woven and knitted fabrics:

• Defects up to 3 inches: 1 penalty point.
• Defects between 3 and 6 inches: 2 penalty points.
• Defects between 6 and 9 inches: 3 penalty points.
• Defects over 9 inches: 4 penalty points.
• Maximum points per linear yard / meter: 4 points (regardless of defect count). Holes or openings larger than 1 inch are automatically assigned 4 points.
• A roll is generally graded First Quality if total penalty points stay below 40 points per 100 square yards (or standard agreed limit).

Weaving & Processing Defects

• Bowing: Weft yarns form an arc or curve across the fabric width instead of a straight line perpendicular to the selvedge.
• Skewing / Torque: Weft yarns lie angularly rather than square (90 degrees) to the warp, causing stitched kurtis or shirts to twist after washing.
• Barre: Unintentional horizontal bands or stripes in woven or knitted fabrics, usually caused by tension differences or uneven yarn count.
• Slub: An abnormally thick lump in yarn that weaves into the cloth as an uneven knot or line.

Fastness & Tolerances

• GSM Tolerance: Standard commercial tolerance across a finished batch is generally ±5% of the agreed specification.
• Crocking: Color rub-off tested under dry and wet conditions using a Crockmeter.

Calculate fabric requirements and landed costs using the fabric margin calculator, or verify yarn rates in the yarn HSN finder.