Know Your Fabrics: Georgette, Chiffon, Crepe and More

Fabric names describe three different things: the fibre (cotton, silk, polyester, viscose), the construction (woven or knitted) and the finish or weave (satin, crepe, twill). "Satin" is a weave, so a satin can be silk or polyester. "Georgette" describes the yarn and texture, so you will find polyester georgette, viscose georgette and pure silk georgette at very different prices. Always ask what the fibre is.

Sheer fabrics: chiffon, georgette and organza

• Chiffon is very light, smooth and see-through. It flows beautifully but is delicate to stitch.
• Georgette is woven from tightly twisted yarns, which give it a slightly grainy, bouncy feel. It is heavier and less transparent than chiffon and holds embroidery well, which is why it is so common in Surat sarees and dupattas.
• Organza is sheer but crisp and stiff. It keeps its shape, so it is used for overlays, dupattas and festive wear.

Shine, texture and pile: satin, crepe and velvet

• Satin has a smooth, shiny face and a dull back because of its weave, where yarns float over several others.
• Crepe has a crinkled, pebbly surface from highly twisted yarns. It drapes well and resists creasing.
• Velvet has a short, dense raised pile that feels soft and looks rich.

Everyday fabrics: rayon, khadi, denim and jersey

• Rayon (viscose) is made from wood pulp cellulose. It is soft and breathable and very popular for kurtis.
• Khadi is any cloth that is hand-spun and hand-woven.
• Denim is a cotton twill, usually with indigo warp and white weft.
• Single jersey is a knitted fabric with natural stretch, used for T-shirts.

Quick checks when you buy

• Hold the fabric up to the light to judge how sheer it is, and whether a lining will be needed.
• Crush a corner in your hand for a few seconds: fabric that stays creased will need ironing after every wash.
• Ask for the fibre content in writing on the bill, especially for "silk" and "georgette".

Next, try the fibres and yarn quiz or the trade terms quiz.