Study notes
Internal Structure: The Unseen Engine of Quality Apparel
While the shell fabric defines outer drape and visual design, the internal trims, linings, and interlinings determine the garment's silhouette retention, collar sharpness, seam durability, and skin comfort.
Interlinings & Stiffeners
- Fusible Interlining: Non-woven or woven backing coated with thermoplastic hot-melt adhesive dots (PE, PA, or PES). Under high temperature and roller pressure inside a fusing press, the glue bonds permanently to collar, cuff, and placket panels.
- Non-Fusible (Sew-in) Canvas: Floating internal structure woven from horsehair, wool, and camel hair used in bespoke bespoke suiting. It molds naturally to the wearer's body contours through body heat.
- Buckram: Stiff, coarse woven cotton or linen impregnated with starch, acrylic, or paste, traditionally used to support heavy sherwani collars, bridal lehenga waistbands, and curtain hems.
Garment Linings & Fasteners
- Viscose / Cupro Taffeta: The premier choice for luxury blazer and jacket linings. It offers natural anti-static properties, high moisture breathability, and a silky smooth slip over shirts.
- Polyester Pongee: Budget-friendly, durable lining fabric commonly used in mass-market ethnic jackets, kurtis, and trousers.
- Zipper Gauges: Measured by teeth width in millimeters (e.g., #3 for delicate kurti side seams, #5 for denim flys, #8 and #10 for heavy parkas and duffle bags).
Compute production costing and trim allowances with our kurti margin calculator, or verify trim taxes in the textile GST finder.
About this quiz
- Topic
- Fabrics & Fibres
- Level
- Intermediate
- Questions
- 10 multiple choice
- Good for
- Garment manufacturers, master tailors, pattern masters, fashion merchandisers, boutique production heads
- Last reviewed
Sources
- Garment Trims and Construction Technology Manual
- BizTorq HSN & GST Finder
Spotted a mistake? Tell us and we will check it.